Tides, Limestone, and Light: A Backpacker’s Route Through the Philippines
- samkobernat

- Mar 5, 2021
- 4 min read
Updated: Sep 20

Fly into Manila and treat arrival as the first chapter, not a layover. Grab a local SIM at the airport for maps and messages, download Grab for rides, and sleep one night near your next-day terminal. The country is an archipelago, so the rhythm is plane, ferry, tricycle, repeat. Pack light. A 30-liter backpack, sandals that grip, and curiosity will carry you farther than a heavy suitcase ever could.
Start in Cebu City to open the door to the Visayas. Visit Magellan’s Cross and the Basilica for an hour of history, then get out of the traffic and into water. Head south to Moalboal and slip into the sea where the sardine run moves like a living cloud. Swim slowly, keep your distance, and let the school wrap the frame. Continue to Kawasan Falls and arrive early before the canyoneering groups. If you film, shoot short steady clips, then just stand under the water and feel the weight of it. At night, eat barbecue by the road, talk to the vendors, and write down the names of the beaches they love. Those will be your next pins.
Hop to Bohol by ferry when you want land that rolls like waves. The Chocolate Hills look like a landscape out of a children’s book. They make the most sense from above, so fly your drone only where permitted and keep altitude modest. Drift through the Loboc River on a slow boat and let the greens reset your eyes. Visit the Tarsier Sanctuary with quiet feet and no flash. You will never forget how small and ancient those eyes feel.
Keep moving to Palawan when you are ready for limestone and lagoons. Base in El Nido and plan an island-hopping day, but avoid trying to collect every spot in one go. Choose two lagoons and one beach, bring a dry bag, and leave shoes that can get wet. Paddle Big Lagoon when the sun is still low so the water glows from within. End on Nacpan Beach where the sand runs for kilometers and the sky performs every evening. If you like shipwreck stories, detour to Coron and join a guided dive on a shallow wreck. Swim slowly, mind your buoyancy, and listen to your breath. Kayangan Lake will give you glassy water and a cliff that reads like a cathedral.
When you crave pure beach, fly to Boracay and treat it kindly. White Beach is a soft runway for sunsets that never repeat themselves. Photograph silhouettes of paraws against the last light and wipe your lens often. If you want quiet, walk to Puka Shell Beach and let the wind take the crowds out of your shot. Join a sunset sail once, put the camera down for five minutes, and memorize the color of the water when the sun kisses the line.
Save Siargao for the chapter where you want community and routine. The island runs on surf and smiles. Learn to ride small waves at Cloud 9 with a local instructor. Watch the boardwalk at first light and count how many different blues a single morning can hold. Paddle into Sugba Lagoon on a calm day and take your aerial shot only after you have floated long enough to understand the place. Siargao teaches you the secret the rest of the country hints at. Move slowly, and the best scenes reveal themselves.
Circle back to Manila with new eyes and give the city one full day. Walk Intramuros and read the stones. Ride to Bonifacio Global City and shoot murals and lines of glass at blue hour. Find a carinderia, eat what is busy on the counter, and thank the cook. The city carries more stories than you can collect in one pass. Take two and leave the rest for next time.
Travel in the Philippines rewards simple habits. Start early. Drink more water than you think you need. Carry small bills for ferries and tricycles. Back up your photos at night with filenames that include the island and the date. Expect plans to bend around weather and embrace those turns. The best detours become your favorite paragraphs.
For photos and film, plan by light instead of location. Shoot sunrise for lagoons and rice terraces, late afternoon for beaches and cliffs, and blue hour for Manila and Cebu. Use a polarizer on bright water days, but take it off when the sun drops so you do not lose light. Underwater, hold the camera still and let fish do the moving. On boats, sit near the stern where vibration is lower. Record short soundscapes. Waves under a bangka hull, church bells in Intramuros, laughter from a basketball court at dusk. Sound turns travel into memory on the timeline.
The questions keep you hungry for the next ferry. What color will the lagoon be in the morning. How quiet will the reef feel when the first bubbles rise. Which island will teach you a word you did not know you needed. The answers live in the spaces between pins, in the hour you wait for the clouds to lift, in the conversation you have with the boatman who points to a beach you cannot find on any map.
If you want a simple route to follow, land in Manila, jump to Cebu for sardines and falls, ferry to Bohol for hills and river, fly to El Nido for lagoons, sail to Coron for wrecks and Kayangan, rest in Boracay for sunsets, finish in Siargao for waves and time. Keep mornings early, bags light, and your sense of wonder right where you can reach it.





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